China's 'Hermes of gold' shines despite lacklustre demand for high-end goods

Swiping through post after post about
Wang decided to brave the lines outside Laopu's
"I'm a jewellery lover, Tiffany, Cartier or Bulgari, these are all brands I have bought," Wang said, citing rival retail chains owned by LVMH and Richemont. "I have diamonds and gemstone jewellery but ... long-term it's gold that offers the best way to preserve value."
"After the pandemic, people want to pursue something more elevated that offers some spiritual sustenance ... this traditional dragon and phoenix box has an auspicious meaning; it also offers this kind of spiritual sustenance."
The company has blended Chinese cultural elements within contemporary designs to emerge as a uniquely homegrown luxury brand. The strategy has been fortified by its use of gold, considered a safe investment by Chinese consumers during periods of instability.
But a source with direct knowledge of Laopu's business said its annual sales approached
"Laopu's average store revenue is nearly
Investors have been paying attention. Since its Hong Kong IPO in
A NEW LUXURY CONTENDER
The company has come a long way since founder Xu Gaoming, a former fisheries clerk, started his first gold jewellery business in 2009 and established the brand Laopu Gold - which translates to "old store" - in 2016.
With prices for most of its popular products ranging from 10,000 to
Its exclusivity is drawn in part from a strategy pulled from the playbook of its Western competitors.
As rising gold prices in 2024 pushed investors toward bullion and coins and gold jewellery sales in
Laopu has also eschewed the spot price for gold to which other domestic competitors peg their selling rates, charging a premium for design and branding.
Its best-selling gourd-shaped pendant - a symbol of good fortune in Chinese culture - contains 24.4 grams of gold but sells for over
Other brands might sell similarly weighted products for
And while gold-focussed brands including Chow Tai Fook and Lao Feng Xiang each have store networks in the thousands, Laopu has chosen to keep its retail experience exclusive.
It has just 37 stores across greater
Chinese consumers have dubbed Laopu the "Hermes of Gold".
While Chinese brands have stolen market share from Nike in sportswear and L'Oreal in beauty, they have struggled to threaten global luxury players which charge a premium for storytelling, heritage and design.
High-profile entrants in this space, such as clothing and furniture maker Shang Xia (co-founded by Hermes but since sold to Ferrari-owner Exor) and the Kering-owned jewellery brand Qeelin, have found a niche audience for products that attempt to balance Chinese and Western luxury elements.
But analysts say Laopu is a contender to fully break through the luxury glass ceiling.
"It's not an imminent threat to global luxury groups because to build a luxury brand takes a long time. You need a story, you need a history, you need the craftsmanship, but it's possible," said
"If you have the best-in-class design, good quality, good service, it's possible."
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(Reporting by
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